Plan your project for summer/dry months. Know it can cost more for transporting than for product itself, so ask what products are available close to you. Support and source locally especially with sand. Best practice is to have a consultation with an experienced arena builder or earth moving company. They will know what is best suited for your climate, location etc. We can recommend a contractor in your region that has good reviews see our RESOURCES page. If project managing yourself, don't scrimp on the base and drainage work, event the fanciest surface wont work on a bad base. Ensure the levelling is done by a laser not by eye. Access for large truck will be required so overhanging trees, gateways need to be clear and the track to drive in needs to be at least gravel.

Top up is adding more of the same product. Refurbishing is adding new product and/or additives to a pre-existing arena to improve its functionality or to you are looking to reduce or eliminate issues such as; Puddles not draining, sloppy footing. Dust from sand degradation. No cushion or re bound. Too dry no water retention. Too thin, riding on the base. Unstable, too soft or deep Too soft, riding through the surface. Track formation and compaction. Surfaces blowing away. Incorrect fall, footing is draining away. Frost impact and damage. Drying out of hooves Abrasion of hooves. Joint or tendon ailments. Organic contamination (leaves/manure). Uneven - depressions and tripping hazards. Often if the basics aren't right, no product is going to rectify any issues. Therefore it is possible that you may have to redo your arena base, scraping back all the surface, sort drainage, levels and start again. Often people’s arenas are too deep and up to 50% of the surface must be removed. The lifespan of your surface can be greatly affected by many factors such as: Lack of knowledge/advice. Maintenance Organic matter e.g. leaves and manure. Weather conditions. Climate. Frequency of use. Dust is created by sand grinding down with use. Sand doesn’t last forever and should be topped up every 3-4 years dependent on usage Adding other surface products acts as a buffer to prolong your sands life.

That's easy, we have tables that gives us the required units per square meter so just send us the basics and we will work out the rest for you. To quote we need: Arena Size LENGTH x WIDTH (metres) Current DEPTH ( e.g. 2.5cm) Desired DEPTH (cm) you are wanting Square Metre (M2) or (sqm) is LENGTH x WIDTH Cubic Metre (M3) or (cbm) is LENGTH x WIDTH x DEPTH How deep should the surface be? that's about personal preference plus your climate, discipline and how much usage. Try to check out, ride on and get peoples opinion on what they like (and don't) about their arenas. We say err on the side of caution, it's much easier to add more, but harder and more expensive to remove excess. Your arena should be 50% Sand (combination of coarse & medium & fine) 50% Other Product. Recommended depth total depth 8cm and 12.5cm for fibre based. Coverage for our products is quoted in 2.5cm increments and 5cm Fibre to allow for compacting and settling. You can get some now to start with, try it and add more later, consider the cost of a 2nd delivery.

When installing and spreading any of our surface products we recommend using safety goggles face mask covered footwear This is to avoid breathing in any dust particles. Ensure to wash hands after handling the product. Keep children and pets away that may ingest the product. Seek medical/poisons advice in an emergency. Once the product has been on the arena for 24 hours after dust has settled it is safe for people and pets to walk on.

Before delivery we will email you instructions on how to map out your arena for application of the products you have purchased. Ensure to use protective goggles, mask, gloves and covered boots. BULK BAGS - custom blends | pvc granule | foam fill | euro sand | a grade sand Don't have access to a tractor? see VIDEO for unloading If Hiab delivery (truck with small crane) and access allows - have the bags unloaded and distributed onto your arena as per instructions. If recycling your bags - empty the contents by lifting from the loops with tractor and untie the chute at the bottom, the contents should easily come out, if not then use your rake handle to dislodge. If not recycling then slice the bags from the ground up beside both vertical seam, then across the bottom horizontal seam. Rake out, then spread - you can do this by hand with your rake, or with your bike and harrows or arena groomer to distribute the surface evenly. 25kg BAGS - Hydro Ride Spread with a pellet fertilizer spreader either on quad or with a hand spreader. LARGE AND XL BALES hemp fibre | coco fibre |budget fibre | wool plus For fibre or wax products there is a more in-depth process to follow that we provide upon sale and before delivery.

We will recommend and source products from suppliers nearest to you to save on freight cost. Obligation free quote (valid for 7 days) for delivery to your closest Mainfreight Depot. Door to Door is possible privately via Find A Load Facebook group. We have priced all our products in square metres, however freight is a little more complicated - not a once size fits all, as volumes vary due to the weight and packaging sizes of the different products. Access for a large truck may be required - this means a driveway that can easily swing in from the road, no bridges, no low-lying trees, plus and a solid and level driveway that the truck wont sink in, don’t expect the driver to drive through a paddock or mud, as it will be a hard no. If delivered Door to Door will also need a forklift, tractor or a 4wd for unloading. A Hiab truck can be arranged if you do not have any means to unload, this is at extra cost, and we will need to know this at time of ordering.

Sand forms the basis of most equestrian surfaces, however, not all sands are alike... there are many options to choose from and with various names for the same products which makes it confusing. River, Shell, Limestone, Mortar, Quarry, Iron, Fines, Quartz, Sea, Silica, Shellrock, Pit sand, Crusher Dust, Black Sand, Manufactured Sand, Masonry, Concrete and there are many more including Arena Sand, EQ sand. they are all just names and will vary in makeup depending on where it was sourced from. Example: sand taken from a quarry in 2002 will be a very different sand in 2020 from the same quarry. Sand is a natural product, basically crushed mineral. Different sands have varying particle sizes, shapes, colours, properties, and qualities. For a riding surface, you want to have a combination of grades to avoid instability or compaction, which happens when the surface is subjected to the elements with no maintenance (grooming). Sand surfaces can become compacted. Landing on this following a fall from your horse would be like landing on concrete. PARTICLE SIZE & SHAPE Sand is classified by particle size, rather than what type of mineral it is. Sizes range from .07mm to 4.7mm sand is aggregate smaller than gravel but bigger than silt. Particle shape is very important Angular to sub-angular particles can be jagged and pointy, but they do interlock well to provide stability. Rounded grain shape alone, can shift underfoot, like riding on marbles; otherwise, is good for avoiding compaction and maintaining good drainage. Fine particles are best to add for stabilizing particles, filling in the gaps around the other sand sizes. Ask friends and locals what products they have used for their arenas, and what they would do again or do differently. Find out what quarries are near you, find out what sands are available and whether they can provide a mixed blend. Ask if they can share any clients they have supplied to and consider contacting them. By choosing a quarry closest to your location, you will save on transport; we recommend supporting your local suppliers. Get samples of the sand e.g. a sandwich sized snaplock bag and send to us for testing. GRADING A. When particles are all the same size it remains loose, shifty and feels deep. B. Sand with little variation in grading will separate becoming packed on the bottom and loose on top. C. Combination range of larger, smaller, fine particles will help keep your footing firm but not compacted. We recommended a sand blend like this for NZ coarse sand (under 4.5mm) 30% medium sand (under 2.0mm) 35% fine sand (under .075mm) 35% With constant use and friction against itself, sand will break down into dust, to avoid this happening, consider the following suggestions. Request washed sand - as this eliminates clay & silt content which can become slippery. Add a natural or synthetic surface, and have it blended in with your sand for longevity, it will hinder the abrasive properties, avoid compacting and shifting underfoot. Always remove manure deposited on the arena surface straight after riding, before it gets mixed in. Manure will break down into fine particles, called Organic Matter, also creating a dust problem and can block drainage. Irrigation is a must-have for any riding surface. This is the key element people miss but makes all the difference, to get it right, get the advice. We offer an irrigation consultation to get the right advice based on your property's supply, pump, psi etc. Add a dust suppressant such as our Hydro-Ride or Dustex products to maintain moisture retention. TESTING Ask for a Particle Distribution Sheet, which shows the curve and the results of sieving through mesh screens and how the sand is grouped in particle sizes. You can find this on our SERVICES PAGE Send a sample of the sand you are considering (sandwich-sized snaplock bag) to Arena Surfaces for a report on the sand you are considering. A sieve analysis includes an examination of the grain fineness (or ‘dispersity’) and the gradation of the individual grain fineness levels relative to each other. We can recommend which type of sand/footing/additive needs to be added for stability. Get a bucket of the sample sand, create a hole with your hands and fill it with water. The water must not pool and stay, it must drain through. The speed of this is also going to help you understand how your surface is going to drain. MAINTENANCE Maintenance is part of having a well-functioning arena, keeping the surface consistent and moist. You want to recreate a surface like a beach, but the tide doesn't come in and out in your arena, so the 2 most important factors in achieving this are irrigating and grooming. GROOMING Firstly, leaves and other organic materials will degrade your surface and shorten its longevity - so pick them up, or better still, use a leaf vac. If left on the arena they will degrade and change the composition of the surface. Remove manure deposited on the arena surface before it gets mixed in. Manure will break down into fine particles, contributing to the dust problem. Tip: Use a cable tie and an old duvet cover as a collection bag with a leaf vacuum to complete the job in one go. Ensure the leaves are not wet! Check that your drainage points are clear of organic material too, so the water can run freely. Unkept surfaces contribute to uneven surfaces, which has been found to suggest that horses modify their gaits based on the small changes in the surface, so it is always best to keep it uniform across the whole arena to achieve optimal riding performance. Spend time on the tracks around the outside, where the coach stands and shift your jumps/course/setup regularly. Ideally, you should groom every other day, but if you are working more than a couple of horses, then daily or even several times a day for a public or professional arena. There are many ways to harrow the best, with a proper arena groomer and a roller on the back, which is important for fibre mix surfaces. Remember - whatever you do in one direction, always do the same in reverse. If you find an overwhelming amount of organic matter and stones, we can bring in our ARENA CLEANER once a year for a good spring clean. See our SERVICES page. IRRIGATION watering will dampen the sand, making it firmer and helping the components to stay together. Depending on the climate, season and where you live you can factor in how much watering you need. For outdoor arenas, the rain will take care of a lot of the watering. Programming your irrigation system to run for approximately 10-15 minutes just before your ride is ideal. A built-in irrigation system is ideal and much easier to manage, however, if you're on a budget, then invest in couple of decent hose and lawn sprinklers (ones with even, wide, long streams) and a timer. Have a systematic approach and simply move the sprinkler every 15mins till you've done all the entire arena. The optimum surface depth is 7.5cm for straight sand with 5cm compacted protecting your base and the top 2.5cm for fluffing by grooming. Absolute minimal coverage 5cm and a maximum 10cm for a mixed surface to allow for compaction. Sand should make up at least half of your surface, the other half could be any of our range of SURFACES.

Every arena needs water to perform at its best. Your horse needs to feel supported in his footfalls - so the ideal surface is fluffy on the top 3cm and firm support under that. So you get an imprint like at the beach on the tideline like this... Here is a clip of what we have at our home arena. You can also buy a hose and a sprinkler water for 30 mins in each spot till surface is wet down then ride. Sprinklers A simple option for automation is a timer, better still get one you can schedule to turn on before your ride, after work or school etc. Schedulers & Timers

Unless it has just stopped raining, your arena shouldn't have puddles, lakes or pooling of water, if you do it could mean: 1. Your arena is not draining. 2. Your arena is not level. 3. Your outlets drains are blocked. All of these situations do need to be rectified, things to consider first: Has it always been like this? Had it got drainage? Is your arena level? Was it compacted? Do you have geotextile over your sub-base? Does you arena have a fall or crown? Was your arena put in by a professional arena builder? Was your arena laser leveled at the time of building? FYI - Fall is an even and gentle drop say 1-2% from the high side or a crown is a slight rise in the middle like a very flat triangle. If you have concerns, get in touch with us for some professional advice we also do CONSULTATIONS.

Firstly, being aware of your environmental impact is commendable, awareness is the first step. The next step is choice, its important to inform yourself and compare the products you are considering. how long it will last? what maintenance is required? how much water does it need? what area does it cover? cost vs how often it needs to be replaced? The fact is: without exception, synthetic/plastic/rubber/inorganic surfaces are not eco-friendly, BUT consider most of these products last substantially longer than organic or natural products - which means you are not having to replace your entire surface sometimes within 5 lifecycles of the natural options. Don't forget, using recycled or repurposed products IS diverting from landfill and 'doing your bit'. Next step is action. Implementing ways to avoid pollutants entering our eco system. Synthetic surfaces are often expensive so another good reason to care for your investment. Maintain with recommended grooming and irrigation. Protect your arena by ensuring none is going down the drain or being blown away. We offer a consult service to help you make an environmental plan for your arena and property.

Watering is very important for most surfaces, when the surface is wet it will bind products together, all sand or fibre arenas need irrigating for the optimum footing for your horse - just like when the tide has been out at the beach. Grooming is important for all surfaces, some recommended daily, some weekly, Grooming mixes the sand with surface product/s together, but when it dries out, the lightest particles will lift to the surface and will potentially blow away. Our most recommended option is our liquid wax, applying will help to bind your surface. The ratio is 1 litre per 2 square metres, at this ratio it still allows product to retain important water to keep your surface soft and inhibit dust. Planting is great long term around the perimeter of your arena there are many options of hardy and attractive natives, bushes or hedges: Agapanthas / Teatree / Griselinia /Lavender / Lucerne / Tagasaste / Escallonia / Buxus Microphylla Japonica / Sempervirens are a few suggestions. In the meantime while waiting for them to grow you could install wind break, netting or fine chicken wire on the arena side of your fence. Don’t forget gateways too, you can also use the recycled plastic edging or conveyer belt to hang in the space below the gate but above the ground; loosely thread with thin wire or cable tied so it can move both ways and drag. If any surface does escape your arena once a month whip around with the leaf blower or vacuum and it can be sorted out within an hour.

If building new then discuss with your drainlayer what options are available for intercepting the sand and surface from going into the drainage. If you have an existing arena, firstly assess where the water fall goes to. Check what outlet you have is it a concrete or concrete pipe you can fit a mesh sleeve over the pipe to collect any particles but let the water drain through. If you have leaves, organic matter such as manure or silt from your sand in the run off water; then you will need to empty the mesh net regularly eg every few days and before it rains again to ensure the water can flow through.

For a start we suggest installing kickboards: wood or recycled plastic edging placed around the bottom of your fence. Dig out a small V with a spade so you can put 2.5cm into the ground, with approx. 15-20cm above the arena surface. these can be nailed or cable tied to existing fences or use heavy duty pegs. Other options include power poles / railway sleepers / cinder blocks / rocks / concrete posts / tyres filled in with plants, hedges or dense planting around your perimeter that can to help keep your surface contained from being flicked when riding or if it banks up on the sides. Across an entrance/exit of your arena/round pen/stable or yard you can install a gate brush or an innovative product called Bedding Blocker or DIY with an upside down broom, a draught seal or flexible strip brush, weather seal. The purpose of it is to sweep any excess surface from hooves, boots and paws before they leave the area.

How do we separate the product from manure for composting?We have tried and tested this process.. Set up 3 bins in your composting area. ORGANIC / NON-ORGANIC / RETURN. Source a large drum with a lid. Install a tap 1/3 of the way down. Half fill with water. Empty manure (place buckets inside your trolley is easiest) into the drum. Give it a stir then leave to settle. Foam and some PVC Granule will float to the top, you can scoop it off with a sieve, or mesh scoop. Put into the RETURN bin. Cover lid Once a month or when almost full, turn the tap on and collect the manure liquid for the garden. Empty the remains into feed sacks to drain the water off, then hang in the shed to dry, once fully dry, shake the contents onto a mesh screen with difference sizes mesh, like a soil seive to seperate the granule, rubber, fibres or whatever you are fltering out. you can put in the RETURN bin. Hose/rinse the product in the RETURN bin and return the arena. This process means nothing goes into the your compost/soil/water or landfill. NO WASTE GENERATED.

You have a few options. Sell as is 2nd hand surface. Recycle the sand and rubber separately, you would need to arrange a bobcat, trommel and bulk bags/tipper truck. Local landscape supplies would potentially buy or collect your sand. You could recycle the rubber to manufacturers or we could put you in contact with some places to do this. Dump as you usually would with household and commercial waste such as your refuse station.