Plan your project for summertime or dry months.

Our motto is 'DO IT ONCE, DO IT RIGHT'. Arena Surfaces NZ offers project management /or consultation to keep you on the right track. Often, clients are given numerous suggestions and advice (which can be conflicting), and we can clarify and explain the processes and reasons behind them. We work on your behalf and can communicate with contractors or quarries if that makes it easier for you. We speak the language of both horse people and contractors!.

Understand that transportation costs can be higher than the cost of the product itself, so ask about products that are available near you. Support local businesses by sourcing contractors and aggregates from local suppliers.

Best practice is to consult with an experienced arena builder, earth-moving contractor, or arena specialist, such as Arena Surfaces NZ. Professionals will know what is best suited for your location, geology, climate, and aggregate knowledge, among other helpful factors. Arena Surfaces has a national database and can recommend a contractor in your region that has good reviews. If you're project managing yourself, don't scrimp on the base and drainage work; even the fanciest surface won't work on a bad base.

Ensure the levelling is done by a laser, not by eye, at every layer.

Access for large trucks will be required, so overhanging trees and gateways need to be clear, and the track for access needs to be gravel.

Top up is adding more of the same product.

Refurbishing is adding new product and/or additives to a pre-existing arena to improve its functionality or if you are looking to reduce or eliminate issues such as;

• Puddles not draining

• Sloppy footing

• Dust from sand degradation

• No cushion or re bound

• Too dry, no water retention.

• Too thin, riding on the base

• Unstable, too soft or deep

• Too soft, riding through the surface

• Track formation and compaction

• Surfaces blowing away

• Incorrect fall, footing is draining away

• Frost impact and damage

• Drying out of hooves

• Abrasion of hooves

• Joint or tendon ailments

• Organic contamination (leaves/manure)

• Uneven - depressions and tripping hazards

If the basics aren't right, no product can rectify any issues. Therefore, it is possible that you may have to redo your arena base, scraping back all the surface, sorting drainage, correct levels, and start again. Often, people’s arenas are too deep, and some of the surface must be removed or blended with another type of sand to offer standalone stability.

The lifespan of your surface can be significantly affected by many factors, such as:

• Lack of knowledge/advice.

• Maintenance groomer

• Buffer/s from the elements

• Organic matter e.g. leaves and manure

• Weather conditions

• Climate

• Frequency of use

• Type of sand e.g. doesn't compact, compacts too much

Dust is created when sand is ground down through use - this is not good for horse or human respiratory health. Sand does not last forever and should be replenished every 3-4 years, depending on usage. It important to know what you have on your arena, sand testing is available through Arena Surfaces NZ

Adding other surface products, such as hair fibre, geotextiles or rubber, acts as a buffer to prolong your sand's life.

That's easy, we have tables that give us the required units per square metre or lineal metre, so just send us the basics on our QUOTE FORM and we can work out the rest for you. To quote we need:

1. Arena Size LENGTH x WIDTH (metres)

2. Current DEPTH of surface ( e.g. 2.5cm)

3. Desired DEPTH of surface (cm) you are wanting to achieve after compaction

Square Metre (M2) or (sqm) is LENGTH x WIDTH

Cubic Metre (M3) or (cbm) is LENGTH x WIDTH x DEPTH Lineal Metre (M) is LENGTH is for fencing, tuff-board etc

How deep should the surface be? 'That's about personal preference plus your climate, discipline, additive/s you plan to add and how much usage.'

Visit local arenas, check them out, ride on, ask questions, and get people's opinions on what they like (and don't) about their arenas. We say err on the side of caution, it's much easier (and cheaper!) to add more product (sand), but more complicated to remove excess.

Your arena should be 50% Sand (combination of coarse & medium & fine) 50% other product. Recommended depth*: 5cm to 7.5cm and 12.5cm for fibre-based. *allowing for compacting and settling. Prices for our products on the website is quoted sqm @ 2.5cm increments and 5cm for fibre (plus sand). You could get 50% of the product to start with, try it, and add more later. But consider the cost of a second delivery.

When installing and spreading any of our surface products we recommend using.

1. safety goggles

2. face mask

3. covered footwear

4. gloves

5. hi vis vest

This is to avoid breathing in any dust particles.

Watch out for foreign items there may be up to 1% of 'other' in your load due to machinery or human error.

Ensure to wash hands after handling the product.

Keep children and animals away from the product that may be ingested.

Keep yourself seen and steer clear of working heavy vechicles and loads.

Seek medical/poisons advice in an emergency.

Once the product has been on the arena for 24 hours after dust has settled it is safe for people and animals to walk on.

Before delivery we can email you step-by-step instructions for installing the product/s you have purchased. Ideally, a well-prepared and ready base or surface. (dug out and built up sub base, rock hard base with a fall and drainage with approved sand or sand blend that has been watered, rolled, compacted and laser levelled at each layer and laser levelled. Ensure you use protective goggles, a mask, gloves, covered boots, and a high-vis vest. Here is one example: Mapping your arena into grids.

• How many square metres is your arena? 2400sqm

• How many units are you receiving? e.g. 44 x large hemp fibre bales

• How many kgs in a unit? 165kgs

• How many kgs per sqm? 3kgs

• How many sqm in a unit? 55
  

You have 44 bales and each bale covers 55sqm. Divide your arena size 2400sqm by 55sqm = 43.6. Create a grid using a stick or builder's string with 44 spaces. One bale goes into each space. Slice open the bale.

Hand rake the product over that space.

Remove packaging.

Wet down the product with a hose or irrigation. Power harrow into the top 5cm.

Wet again and let settle.

Groom 12-24 hours later.

BULK BAGS

Don't have access to a tractor? see VIDEOS ( on this page) for unloading

• If Hiab delivery (truck with a built-in crane) and access allows, have the bags unloaded and distributed onto your arena as per the instructions.

• If recycling your bags, empty the contents by lifting from the loops with a tractor and untie the chute at the bottom. The contents should easily come out. If not, use your rake handle to dislodge them.

• If not recycling then slice the bags with a craft knife (or similar) from the ground up beside both vertical seams, then across the bottom horizontal seam.

• Rake out, then spread - you can do this by hand with your rake, or with your tractor/quad and harrows or arena groomer to distribute the surface evenly.

25kg BAGS - Hydro Ride

• Spread with a pellet fertilizer spreader, either with a quad or with a hand spreader.

LARGE AND XL BALES Hemp Fibre | GGT | Wool Plus | Wooltex | Carpet Fibre

• Sawdust Spreader

• Feed Mixer Wagon

• Power Harrow
  

For fibre products, there is more in-depth details to follow including ratios and processes, which we provide upon sale and before delivery.

Hemp_Fibre_product_info

Bulk Bag full

L and Xl bales

We will recommend and source products from suppliers nearest to you to save on freight costs.

Obligation free quote (valid for 7 days) for delivery to your closest freight depot.

Door-to-door is possible privately via the Find A Load Facebook group.

We have priced all our products in square metres; however, freight is a little more complicated - not a one-size-fits-all solution, as volumes vary due to the weight and packaging sizes of the different products.

Access for a large truck may be required - this means a driveway that can easily swing in from the road, no bridges, no low-lying trees, plus a solid and level driveway that the truck won't sink in, don’t expect the driver to drive through a paddock or mud, as it will be a hard no.

If delivered door-to-door, it will also need a forklift, tractor or a 4WD for unloading. A Hiab truck can be arranged if you do not have any means to unload. This is at an extra cost, and we will need to know this at the time of ordering.

Sand forms the basis of most equestrian surfaces, however, not all sands are alike... there are many options to choose from and with various names for the same products which makes it confusing.

River, Shell, Limestone, Mortar, Quarry, Iron, Fines, Quartz, Sea, Silica, Shellrock, Pit sand, Crusher Dust, Black Sand, Manufactured Sand, Masonry, Concrete and there are many more including Arena Sand, EQ sand. they are all just names and will vary in makeup depending on where it was sourced from. Example: sand taken from a quarry in 2002 will be a very different sand in 2020 from the same quarry.

Sand is a natural product, basically crushed mineral. Different sands have varying particle sizes, shapes, colours, properties, and qualities. For a riding surface, you want to have a combination of grades to avoid instability or compaction, which happens when the surface is subjected to the elements with no maintenance (grooming). Sand surfaces can become compacted. Landing on this following a fall from your horse would be like landing on concrete.

PARTICLE SIZE & SHAPE Sand is classified by particle size, rather than by the type of mineral it is. Some are better for drainage than others. Sizes range from .07mm to 4.7mm. Sand is an aggregate that is smaller than gravel but larger than silt.

Particle shape is very important:

• Angular to Sub-Angular particles can be jagged and pointy, so choose a sub-angular option; these particles interlock well to provide stability.

• Rounded grain shape alone can shift underfoot, like riding on marbles; otherwise, it is good for avoiding compaction and maintaining good drainage.

• Fine particles are best added for stabilizing by filling in the gaps around the other sand sizes.

Ask friends and locals about the products they have used for their arenas, and what they would do again or differently.

Find out what quarries are near you, discover what sands are available, and determine if they can provide a mixed blend. Ask if they can share any clients they have supplied to, and consider contacting them. By choosing a quarry located closest to your site, you will save on transportation; we recommend supporting your local suppliers. Get samples of the sand, e.g. a sandwich-sized snap-lock bag, and send them to us for testing. SAND ANALYSIS

GRADING

A. When particles are all the same size, it remains loose, shifty and feels deep.

B. Sand with little variation in grading will separate, becoming packed on the bottom and loose on top.

C. A combination range of larger, smaller, and fine particles will help keep your footing firm but not compacted.

We recommended a sand blend like this for NZ

coarse sand (under 4.5mm) 30%

medium sand (under 2.0mm) 35%

fine sand (under .075mm) 35%

With constant use and friction against itself, sand will break down into dust, to avoid this happening, consider the following suggestions.

1. Request washed sand - as this eliminates clay & silt content, which can become slippery.

2. Add a natural or synthetic surface, and have it blended in with your sand for longevity; it will hinder the abrasive properties, avoid compacting and shifting underfoot.

3. Always remove manure deposited on the arena surface straight after riding, before it gets mixed in. Manure will break down into fine particles, called Organic Matter, also creating a dust problem and can block drainage.

4. Irrigation is a must-have for any riding surface. This is the key element people miss, but it makes all the difference. To get it right, get the advice. We offer an irrigation consultation to get the right advice based on your property's supply, pump, psi, etc.

5. Add a dust suppressant such as our Hydro-Ride or Dustex products to maintain moisture retention.

TESTING Request a Particle Distribution Sheet, which displays the curve and the results of sieving through mesh screens, as well as the grouping of sand by particle size. You can find this on our SERVICES PAGE

Send a sample of the sand you are considering (sandwich-sized snap-lock bag) to Arena Surfaces for a report on the sand you are considering. A sieve analysis includes an examination of the grain fineness (or ‘dispersity’) and the gradation of the individual grain fineness levels relative to each other. We can recommend which type of sand/footing/additive needs to be added for stability.

Get a bucket of the sample sand, create a hole with your hands and fill it with water. The water must not pool and stay; it must drain through. The speed of this process will also help you understand how this option drains as a surface.

MAINTENANCE

Maintenance is essential for maintaining a well-functioning arena, ensuring the surface remains consistent and moist. You want to recreate a surface like a beach, but since the tide doesn't come in and out in your arena, the two most essential factors in achieving this are irrigation and grooming.

GROOMING Firstly, leaves and other organic materials will degrade your surface and shorten its longevity - so pick them up, or better still, use a leaf vac. If left on the arena, they will degrade and change the composition of the surface. Remove manure deposited on the arena surface before it gets mixed in. Manure will break down into fine particles, contributing to the dust problem. Tip: Use a cable tie and an old duvet cover as a collection bag with a leaf vacuum to complete the job in one go. Ensure the leaves are not wet! Check that your drainage points are clear of organic material as well, so the water can flow freely.

Unkept surfaces contribute to uneven surfaces, which have been found to suggest that horses modify their gaits based on the small changes in the surface, so it is always best to keep it uniform across the whole arena to achieve optimal riding performance. Spend time on the tracks around the outside, where the coach stands and shift your jumps/course/setup regularly.

Ideally, you should groom every other day, but if you are working with more than a couple of horses, then grooming daily or even several times a day is recommended for a public or professional arena. There are many ways to achieve the best results, with a proper arena groomer and a roller on the back, which is particularly important for fibre mix surfaces. Remember - whatever you do in one direction, always do the same in reverse.

If you find an overwhelming amount of organic matter and stones, we can bring in our ARENA CLEANER once a year for a good spring clean. See our SERVICES page.

IRRIGATION watering will dampen the sand, making it firmer and helping the components to stay together. Depending on the climate, season and where you live, you can factor in how much watering you need. For outdoor arenas, the rain will take care of a lot of the watering. Programming your irrigation system to run for approximately 10-15 minutes just before your ride is ideal.

A built-in irrigation system is ideal and much easier to manage; however, if you're on a budget, consider investing in a couple of decent hoses and lawn sprinklers (ones with even, wide, and long streams) along with a timer. Have a systematic approach and simply move the sprinkler every 15 minutes till you've done the entire arena. The optimum surface depth is 7.5cm for straight sand with 5cm compacted protecting your base and the top 2.5cm for fluffing by grooming. Absolute minimal coverage of 5cm and a maximum of 12.5cm for a fibre surface to allow for compaction. Sand should make up at least half of your surface; the other half could be any of our range of PRODUCTS.

Every arena needs water to perform at its best. Your horse needs to feel supported in his footfalls, so the ideal surface is fluffy on top 2-3cm and provides firm support underneath. So you get an imprint like at the beach on the tideline like this.

Here is a clip of budget irrigaton options.

You can also buy a hose and a sprinkler water for 30 mins in each spot till surface is wet down then ride. SPRINKLERS

A simple option for automation is a timer, better still get one you can schedule to turn on before your ride, after work or school etc. AUTOMATION

Unless it has just stopped raining, your arena shouldn't have puddles, lakes or pooling of water, if you do it could mean: 1. Your arena is not draining. 2. Your arena is not level.

3. Your outlets drains are blocked.

All of these situations do need to be rectified, things to consider first:

• Has it always been like this?

• Had it got drainage?

• Is your arena level?

• Was it compacted?

• Do you have geotextile over your sub-base?

• Does you arena have a fall or crown?

• Was your arena put in by a professional arena builder?

• Was your arena laser leveled at the time of building?

FYI - Fall is an even and gentle drop say 1-2% from the high side or a crown is a slight rise in the middle like a very flat triangle.

If you have concerns, get in touch with us for some professional advice we also do CONSULTATIONS.

Firstly, being aware of your environmental impact is commendable, awareness is the first step. The next step is choice, its important to inform yourself and compare the products you are considering.

• how long it will last?

• what maintenance is required?

• how much water does it need?

• what area does it cover?

• cost vs how often it needs to be replaced?
  

The fact is: without exception, synthetic/plastic/rubber/inorganic surfaces are not eco-friendly, BUT consider most of these products last substantially longer than organic or natural products - which means you are not having to replace your entire surface sometimes within 5 lifecycles of the natural options. Don't forget, using recycled or repurposed products IS diverting from landfill and 'doing your bit'.

Next step is action. Implementing ways to avoid pollutants entering our eco system. Synthetic surfaces are often expensive so another good reason to care for your investment.

• Maintain with recommended grooming and irrigation.

• Protect your arena by ensuring none is going down the drain or being blown away.
  

We offer a consult service to help you make an environmental plan for your arena and property.

Watering is very important for most surfaces, when the surface is wet it will bind products together, all sand or fibre arenas need irrigating for the optimum footing for your horse - just like when the tide has been out at the beach.

Grooming is important for all surfaces, some recommended daily, some weekly, Grooming mixes the sand with surface product/s together, but when it dries out, the lightest particles will lift to the surface and will potentially blow away. Our most recommended option is our liquid wax, applying will help to bind your surface. The ratio is 1 litre per 2 square metres, at this ratio it still allows product to retain important water to keep your surface soft and inhibit dust. Planting is great long term around the perimeter of your arena there are many options of hardy and attractive natives, bushes or hedges: Agapanthas / Teatree / Griselinia /Lavender / Lucerne / Tagasaste / Escallonia / Buxus Microphylla Japonica / Sempervirens are a few suggestions.

In the meantime while waiting for them to grow you could install wind break, netting or fine chicken wire on the arena side of your fence. Don’t forget gateways too, you can also use the recycled plastic edging or conveyer belt to hang in the space below the gate but above the ground; loosely thread with thin wire or cable tied so it can move both ways and drag.

If any surface does escape your arena once a month whip around with the leaf blower or vacuum and it can be sorted out within an hour.

If building new then discuss with your drainlayer what options are available for intercepting the sand and surface from going into the drainage. If you have an existing arena, firstly assess where the water fall goes to. Check what outlet you have is it a concrete or concrete pipe you can fit a mesh sleeve over the pipe to collect any particles but let the water drain through. If you have leaves, organic matter such as manure or silt from your sand in the run off water; then you will need to empty the mesh net regularly eg every few days and before it rains again to ensure the water can flow through.

For a start we suggest installing kickboards: wood or recycled plastic edging placed around the bottom of your fence. Dig out a small V with a spade so you can put 2.5cm into the ground, with approx. 15-20cm above the arena surface. these can be nailed or cable tied to existing fences or use heavy duty pegs.

Other options include power poles / railway sleepers / cinder blocks / rocks / concrete posts / tyres filled in with plants, hedges or dense planting around your perimeter that can to help keep your surface contained from being flicked when riding or if it banks up on the sides. Across an entrance/exit of your arena/round pen/stable or yard you can install a gate brush or an innovative product called Bedding Blocker or DIY with an upside down broom, a draught seal or flexible strip brush, weather seal. The purpose of it is to sweep any excess surface from hooves, boots and paws before they leave the area.

How do we separate the product from manure for composting?We have tried and tested this process.. Set up 3 bins in your composting area. ORGANIC / NON-ORGANIC / RETURN. Source a large drum with a lid. Install a tap 1/3 of the way down. Half fill with water. Empty manure (place buckets inside your trolley is easiest) into the drum. Give it a stir then leave to settle. Foam and some PVC Granule will float to the top, you can scoop it off with a sieve, or mesh scoop. Put into the RETURN bin. Cover lid Once a month or when almost full, turn the tap on and collect the manure liquid for the garden. Empty the remains into feed sacks to drain the water off, then hang in the shed to dry, once fully dry, shake the contents onto a mesh screen with difference sizes mesh, like a soil seive to seperate the granule, rubber, fibres or whatever you are fltering out. you can put in the RETURN bin. Hose/rinse the product in the RETURN bin and return the arena.

This process means nothing goes into the your compost/soil/water or landfill.

NO WASTE GENERATED.

You have a few options.

1. Sell as is 2nd hand surface.
   

2. Recycle the sand and rubber separately, you would need to arrange a bobcat, trommel and bulk bags/tipper truck. Local landscape supplies would potentially buy or collect your sand. You could recycle the rubber to manufacturers or we could put you in contact with some places to do this.
   

3. Dump as you usually would with household and commercial waste such as your refuse station.

Bobcat moving arena sand/dirt.

Shred-Ride rubber